Riding the Spine has stashed their bikes in Huanúco and have taken a hellish 30 hours of busses to Arequipa where they are organizing a rafting trip down the Cotahuasi River with John Yost and his son JJ Yost who has been riding with us since Panama.Russell Kramer, who had joined us on bike through Central America is flying down to be the safety kayaker for this epic adventure.
The Cotahuasi was first run by a group of American and Peruvian Paddlers, including Gian Marco Vellutino and has since been run commercially by only one or two outfitters when they can find the clients. Unlike the Colca Canyon, the Cotahuasi´s remoteness makes it exceedingly difficult to organize logistics and so very few trips have made it down the canyon. In 2000, a private European group attempted to run the river, but ended in tragedy when a 19 year old woman was tossed out of the boat in a class V rapid and her body was never found.
At over twice the depth of Arizona’s Grand Canyon, the Cotahuasi is the deepest canyon in the world! Measuring 11,587 feet from river to rim, this scarcely-explored Peruvian wilderness remains one of the most pristine environments on Earth. The Cotahuasi River Canyon features a rare glimpse into the Incan world; a geologic, floral, and faunal paradise; and a river-runner’s dream! Draining the western slope of the Andes Mountains, the waterway courses 100 miles over a continuous series of Class IV and V drops, making it one of the most gripping stretches of commercially run whitewater anywhere. Visitors to the Cotahuasi encounter some the rarest and the most extraordinary Incan archeological sites… quaint Peruvian village replete with natural hot springs, spot enormous Andean Condors, and experience one of the most fantastic wilderness river expeditions on Earth! -Global Descents
Check back in a week or so for photos, videos and stories from this exciting expedition.
All we knew for sure about the upcoming route was that it was far from being a main road and eventually it would lead to Cajabamba. Nothing could have possibly prepared us for what lay ahead; namely another world with its unique terrain, an often puzzling history, and a system of rules and conventions that didn’t always make sense. But then not yet a mile outside the community of San Juan we would have to face up to the fact that our new lives inside the Cooperativo Jose Carlos Mariategui would require some adjustment.
As if we had arrived at the very doorstep to God’s holy citadel there hung a sign from a toll booth like shack that read: “Only the Virtuous man shall pass!” A woman of imposing figure acted as sentry who, rather than greeting us, morosely draped her arm around the tongue of the large iron-gate that blocked the road. Not being in a particularly penitent frame of mind, I felt somewhat reluctant to make further advance.
Luckily J.J. had no such reservations. “Hey, can we use this road?”
If anybody has been following our SPOT Messenger tracking page, they would notice that we have been way out in the middle of nowhere.
Apparently, the only reason any of the roads we find exist are becuase of the tremendous mining operations they have going out here that are also polluting the area with cyanide and mercury.
We are faced with some serious climbs just about every day, usually 1-3000 meters at a time. One day we only made about 5k in progress, spending the entire day carrying our bikes across dangerous landslides.
My bottom bracket completely failed after 9,000 foot descent and had to be welded directly to the frame. Photos will be posted soon.
Yesterday, coming into Tayabamba we were stopped by two SUV´s, pointing a variety of huge guns at us. Apparently they are the campesino security force. Will write up more about that when I have some time.
Other than that, we have all gotten tremendously sick, and have been calling our illness the swine flu because it has been so strong. Fortunately we were able to find some Cipro and the course of antibiotics has been pretty effective.
Yesterday we had a rest day in Tayabamba and watched a bullfight and then spent the night hanging out with the bullfighters. Another great story I´ll be sure to post when I have some time.
Great photos and another video should be coming soon. WE´ve been slacking on posting stories because our Alphasmart Word Processor died and writing in ECAFEs is just too miserable. Fortunately a new Alphasmart is on its way and regular postings will return.